How to Install a Garden Edge with Bricks

🧱 Installing a Brick Garden Edge: A Simple DIY Weekend Project

What is a brick garden edge and why install one?

A brick garden edge is a practical way to define garden beds, keep mulch and soil contained, and give your yard a clean, finished look. For Australian homeowners, this is a straightforward DIY bricklaying job that can usually be completed over a weekend with basic tools and careful set-out.

This guide covers a simple brick garden edging installation using a compacted base and mortar or dry-laid method, suitable for most flat or gently sloping residential gardens. If the edging is retaining soil at height or supporting loads, seek engineering advice and check local council requirements.

What skill level is required to install a brick garden edge?

Beginner to Intermediate — Estimated time: 4–8 hours for 5–10 m of garden edging

What tools are required for installing a brick garden edge?

What materials are needed for a brick garden edge installation?

What safety requirements apply to brick garden edge installation?

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Plan the Layout

Mark out the proposed garden edge using a hose, string line, or marking paint. For straight runs, use a string line pulled tight between stakes. For curves, a hose or flexible strip works well to visualise the shape before digging.

Measure the full length and calculate how many bricks you need. Standard bricks vary, but many common Australian bricks are around 230 mm x 110 mm x 76 mm. Decide whether the bricks will be laid flat, on edge, or at an angle in a soldier-style finish, as this affects both quantity and excavation depth.

Check that the edging will not trap water against buildings or direct runoff where it is not wanted. Maintain a neat alignment and ensure the edge sits comfortably with surrounding lawn, paths, and garden levels.

Step 2: Excavate the Trench

Dig a trench along the marked line wide enough for the brick plus working room, generally 150–250 mm wide depending on the brick orientation. Depth will depend on your base and the amount of brick you want exposed above ground.

For a typical flat-laid brick edge, excavate to allow:

Remove soft spots, roots, and loose organic material from the trench. The base should be firm and reasonably even before adding sub-base.

Step 3: Prepare and Compact the Base

Add road base or crusher dust in layers and compact it well to a finished depth of 50–75 mm. For short runs, a hand tamper is usually enough. For larger areas or tougher ground, hiring a plate compactor is often more economical than buying one for a one-off job.

Check the base with a spirit level and string line. A garden edge does not need to be perfectly level if following natural ground, but it should be smooth, consistent, and free from sudden dips or rises.

If you are dry laying, spread a bedding layer of washed sand to 20–30 mm and screed it level. If using mortar, prepare for the mortar bed in the next step.

Step 4: Mix Mortar if Using a Mortared Edge

For a more permanent garden edge, lay the bricks on a mortar bed. A common general-purpose mortar mix is 1:2:3, adjusted to suit the sand and workability needed. Mix only enough that you can use comfortably before it starts to stiffen.

The mortar should be workable but not too wet. If it is overly wet, bricks can sink and alignment becomes difficult. Keep your mix consistent from batch to batch for uniform strength and finish.

For simple decorative edging with no traffic loads, some DIYers choose a dry-laid method on compacted base and sand. This is easier to adjust later, but it is less resistant to movement over time.

Step 5: Set the String Line and Lay the First Bricks

Run a string line to the finished face and height of the edging. Start at the most visible point, a corner, or a straight section near a path. Place the first brick carefully and tap it into position with a rubber mallet.

Check each brick for level, alignment, and consistent spacing. If mortaring, butter the ends where needed and bed the brick firmly into the mortar. Keep joints neat and generally around 10 mm for a clean, traditional appearance.

For curved edges, slightly fan the joints to follow the curve smoothly. Avoid forcing tight curves with full bricks if it creates awkward gaps; cut bricks neatly where needed.

Step 6: Continue Laying and Cut Bricks to Fit

Lay the remaining bricks along the string line, checking every few bricks with the level and by sighting along the edge. Small errors add up quickly, so correct them as you go.

Where cuts are needed, mark the brick clearly and cut it using a brick bolster and club hammer, or a suitable masonry saw if available. For beginners, take your time and make cuts on stable ground away from the laid work.

If you are creating a decorative pattern such as soldier course or angled edging, keep the angle and visible height consistent. A simple flat or upright edge is usually the easiest and cleanest option for DIY installation.

Step 7: Finish the Joints and Backfill

If using mortar, tool the joints once the mortar has started to firm up but is not fully hardened. A jointing tool or a short piece of hose can be used to create a neat, slightly compressed finish.

Brush excess mortar from the brick faces before it sets. Do not smear wet mortar across the face of clay bricks, especially lighter-coloured ones, as staining can be difficult to remove.

Backfill both sides of the edging with soil, mulch, or gravel and compact lightly by hand. This helps support the bricks and locks the edge in place.

Step 8: Final Checks and Clean-Up

Walk the length of the edge and inspect for straightness, smooth curves, even height, and secure bedding. Make any small adjustments immediately if dry laid, or before the mortar hardens if mortared.

Lightly clean the finished edge with a soft broom and minimal water. Avoid flooding fresh mortar. Keep foot traffic off the edging until the mortar has cured adequately, typically at least 24–48 hours depending on weather.

Dispose of leftover materials responsibly and store spare bricks for future repairs or extensions.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pro Tips

Recommended Tools