What tools do I need for lay bricks for a garden retaining wall?

This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key building & construction tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.

What skill level do I need for building a brick retaining wall?

Building a brick retaining wall is considered an advanced skill level task. It typically requires 2–5 days, depending on factors like wall length, height, excavation conditions, mortar curing time, and drainage complexity. Proficiency in masonry, understanding structural principles, and adherence to Australian Standards are essential for a durable and compliant structure.

What Australian Standards apply to brick retaining walls?

The primary Australian Standard for brick retaining walls is AS 3700:2018 Masonry structures, which covers design and construction. Additionally, AS 2870:2011 Residential slabs and footings may be relevant for footing design. Local council regulations and the National Construction Code (NCC) also impose specific requirements, particularly for walls over 1 metre in height or those near property boundaries.

How to lay bricks for a garden retaining wall

Skill level: Advanced
Time: 2–5 days depending on wall length, height, excavation conditions, curing time, and drainage complexity
Trade: Building & Construction
Updated: 4 November 2026

Tools you will need

Brick trowel, 11 in or 280 mm pattern
Spirit levels, 600 mm and 1200 mm
String line, line pins and line blocks
Tape measure, 5 m and 8 m
Brick bolster and club hammer
Masonry saw or brick saw with diamond blade
Shovel, trenching shovel and mattock
Plate compactor for base preparation
Wheelbarrow and mortar boards
Gauge rod/storey rod

🧱 How to Lay Bricks for a Garden Retaining Wall

What is involved in laying bricks for a garden retaining wall?

A brick garden retaining wall is a structural landscaping element that must resist lateral soil loads, manage drainage, and remain stable over time. For Australian residential work, correct footing design, reinforcement, articulation, and drainage are critical, and any wall retaining significant height should be reviewed and certified by a structural engineer in accordance with AS 3700 and relevant state and council requirements.

What skill level is required for building a brick retaining wall?

Advanced — Estimated time: 2–5 days depending on wall length, height, excavation conditions, curing time, and drainage complexity

What tools are essential for laying bricks for a retaining wall?

Brick trowel, 11 in or 280 mm pattern

Spirit levels, 600 mm and 1200 mm

String line, line pins and line blocks

Tape measure, 5 m and 8 m

Brick bolster and club hammer

Masonry saw or brick saw with diamond blade

Shovel, trenching shovel and mattock

Plate compactor for base preparation

Wheelbarrow and mortar boards

Gauge rod/storey rod

Jointing tool / brick jointer

Pointing trowel

Concrete mixer or forced-action mixer

Rebar cutter/bender

Drill with mixer paddle for smaller mortar batches

Laser level or dumpy level for set-out and level control

Drainage shovel and rake

PPE: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, steel-cap boots, hi-vis, P2 dust mask

What materials are needed for a brick garden retaining wall?

Clay bricks or concrete masonry units rated for external exposure, quantity to suit wall size plus 5–10% waste

Mortar materials: cement, brickies sand, hydrated lime if using site-mixed mortar

Mortar mix for general bricklaying: 1:1:6 cement:lime:sand or approved proprietary bricklaying mortar

Concrete for footing: minimum 20 MPa or site mix 1:1.5:2.5 for structural applications

N12 reinforcing bar and trench mesh or engineer-specified reinforcement

Core-fill grout if using reinforced cavity or hollow block system

Ag pipe agricultural drain, typically 100 mm slotted

Clean drainage aggregate, typically 10 mm–20 mm

Geotextile filter fabric

PVC weepholes or open perp joints at specified centres

Damp-proof course / flashing where detailed

Control joint material / backing rod and sealant where required

Crushed rock or road base for subgrade preparation, typically 75 mm–100 mm

Timber for profiles and set-out pegs

Water for mixing and curing

Safety Requirements

Wear PPE at all times: steel-cap boots, gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, and respiratory protection when cutting bricks or handling cement.

Use safe manual handling practices; bricks, cement bags, and concrete materials create repetitive lifting risk.

Control silica dust during cutting with wet-cut methods and compliant dust suppression.

Shore excavations if required and keep spoil clear of trench edges.

Use scaffolding or compliant work platforms for higher walls; do not work from unstable stacks of bricks.

Confirm underground services before excavation using Dial Before You Dig and site service plans.

Retaining walls are structural work; walls over local exempt limits or supporting surcharge loads require engineering certification and council/building approval.

Masonry retaining walls must be detailed to suit AS 3700, footing concrete to AS 3600, and drainage/waterproofing elements where applicable to AS 3740 principles for water management around structures.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Set out the wall and confirm engineering requirements

Mark the wall location with string lines and profiles, confirming boundaries, offsets, finished levels, and retained ground height. Establish whether the wall is freestanding brickwork, reinforced masonry, or brick veneer to reinforced concrete/block backing.

For any retaining wall carrying meaningful soil loads, vehicle surcharge, fence posts, nearby structures, or heights exceeding local prescriptive limits, obtain an engineer’s design before work starts. In most cases, a true brick retaining wall should be reinforced and founded on an engineered footing rather than treated like a simple garden wall.

Check articulation joint locations, drainage outlet points, and whether the wall alignment is straight, stepped, or curved. Measure wall thickness and footing width from drawings rather than guessing onsite.

Step 2: Excavate and prepare the foundation trench

Excavate the trench to the required width and depth shown on the engineer’s details or project documentation. As a guide, footing widths for small retaining walls are commonly wider than the wall by at least 150 mm each side, but exact sizes must suit soil class, wall height, and load.

Trim the trench base level and remove all loose or organic material. If the founding material is soft, reactive, or waterlogged, over-excavate and replace with compacted crushed rock as directed.

Compact the base thoroughly. Place 75 mm–100 mm of compacted road base if specified to provide a stable founding platform and improve level control.

Step 3: Install reinforcement and pour the footing

Set reinforcement chairs and place trench mesh or reinforcing bars to achieve proper concrete cover. Typical cover to reinforcement in footings in contact with ground must suit AS 3600 exposure requirements.

Install starter bars or dowels where the wall design calls for reinforced cores, piers, or tied masonry. Check alignment carefully so bars land within cores or cavities.

Pour footing concrete using minimum 20 MPa concrete or structural site mix at 1:1.5:2.5. Compact the concrete with rodding or vibration as appropriate, screed level, and finish flat enough to receive the first course accurately. Allow sufficient curing before loading with brickwork.

Step 4: Establish levels, gauge, and first-course control

Once the footing has cured sufficiently, set a datum using a laser or dumpy level. Mark the top of footing and the first-course bed levels on profiles or gauge rods.

Dry-set the first course where needed to check bond, perp joint spacing, corner returns, and cuts. Avoid small slivers at ends; adjust the set-out so cut bricks remain practical and visually acceptable.

Run string lines for both faces of the wall. The first course must be dead level and accurately aligned because every subsequent course depends on it.

Step 5: Mix mortar and lay the first course

Mix mortar consistently using a suitable bricklaying mortar, commonly 1:1:6 cement:lime:sand, or use a proprietary mortar complying with the brick manufacturer’s recommendations. The mortar should be workable, cohesive, and not too wet.

Spread a full mortar bed, generally around 10 mm thick, and butter perp joints fully. Lay corner leads first, then infill between them to the line.

Tap bricks down to level and line with the handle of the trowel. Check each brick for level, plumb, and alignment. For retaining walls, full bedding and fully filled perps are important to maximise durability and structural integrity.

Step 6: Build corners, piers, and reinforcement zones

Take corners and any engaged piers up first, using a gauge rod to maintain uniform course heights. Use the specified bond pattern—commonly stretcher bond for cavity/reinforced brickwork, though engineer and architectural details may call for alternative bonds.

Where reinforcement is specified, leave access to place vertical bars and later core-fill or grout cavities. Do not block cores or cavities with dropped mortar.

If the wall incorporates brick piers for stiffness, build these exactly to drawing dimensions and ensure they are tied into the wall correctly. For any reinforced masonry elements, maintain bar cover and grout continuity.

Step 7: Install drainage behind the wall

Drainage is critical. Place geotextile to separate backfill fines from drainage aggregate. Install a 100 mm ag pipe at the rear base of the wall with fall to legal discharge.

Backfill immediately behind the wall with free-draining aggregate to the specified width, commonly 200 mm–300 mm or as engineered. Install weepholes or open perp joints at regular centres, often around 1200 mm apart unless detailed otherwise.

Never backfill a retaining wall with heavy clay directly against the brickwork without drainage protection. Hydrostatic pressure is one of the main causes of retaining wall failure.

Step 8: Continue laying courses, maintaining line, plumb, and gauge

Build the wall progressively from leads to infill, keeping to the string line at each course. Maintain consistent joint thickness, typically around 10 mm, unless the brick module requires slight adjustment.

Check plumb regularly with a 1200 mm level and sight the face for bowing. Tool the joints as the mortar firms up to the specified profile, commonly ironed or weather-struck for external durability.

If articulation joints are required, form them at the nominated spacing and location. Do not bridge movement joints with mortar droppings or reinforcement unless specifically detailed.

Step 9: Cut, finish, and clean the brickwork

Make all cuts cleanly using a wet masonry saw where possible. Place cut bricks in less visible areas where practical, while still maintaining bond integrity.

As mortar reaches thumbprint hardness, tool the joints uniformly. Brush off loose mortar and keep the face clean as you go; excessive cleaning later can stain brickwork or wash out joints.

Do not use aggressive acid cleaning on new brickwork unless the brick manufacturer permits it and the dilution/method is controlled. Protect fresh work from rain, rapid drying, and mortar smear.

Step 10: Backfill, compact, and complete final detailing

Only backfill after the wall and any grout/core-fill have developed adequate strength. Place backfill in layers and compact in controlled lifts, avoiding impact loads against green masonry.

Finish surface grading so water sheds away from the wall rather than ponding behind it. Fit capping bricks or coping where specified to protect the top of wall from water entry.

Carry out a final check for plumb, level, joint finish, drainage outlet function, and movement joint completion. Confirm the wall matches the engineer’s details before handover.

What are common mistakes when building a brick retaining wall? to Avoid

1.Building a retaining wall without engineering for soil loads, surcharge loads, or poor ground conditions.

2.Using an undersized or poorly reinforced footing that settles or rotates under load.

3.Omitting drainage aggregate, ag pipe, or weepholes, leading to hydrostatic pressure buildup.

4.Failing to fully fill bed and perp joints, reducing wall durability and structural performance.

5.Backfilling too early or compacting too aggressively against immature masonry.

6.Ignoring articulation joints, causing uncontrolled cracking.

7.Letting mortar droppings block cavities, drainage paths, or weepholes.

Pro Tips

1.Use a storey rod from the first course to keep gauge exact across long runs and around returns.

2.💡 For residential garden walls, a reinforced block core with face brick skin can be more economical and structurally efficient than a pure solid brick retaining wall.

3.💡 Order bricks from the same production batch where possible to minimise colour variation across visible landscape walls.

4.Keep the first course slightly proud of surrounding finished ground levels to reduce rising damp, staining, and edge-soil contact.

5.💡 Hire a brick saw and plate compactor for short-duration projects rather than purchasing; for most small contractors or renovators, hire costs are more economical unless these tools are used weekly.

Recommended Tools

Husqvarna or Norton Clipper masonry saw — for accurate, clean brick cuts with reduced breakout

Stabila 1200 mm spirit level — reliable plumb and level control on wall faces

Ox brick trowel 280 mm — good balance for consistent mortar application

Wacker Neuson plate compactor — effective subgrade and backfill compaction

Leica or Topcon laser level — faster set-out and height control over long retaining wall runs

Frequently asked questions

What is involved in lay bricks for a garden retaining wall?: A brick garden retaining wall is a structural landscaping element that must resist lateral soil loads, manage drainage, and remain stable over time. For Australian residential work, correct footing design, reinforcement, articulation, and drainage are critical, and any wall retaining significant hei
What skill level do I need for lay bricks for a garden retaining wall?: Advanced — Estimated time: 2–5 days depending on wall length, height, excavation conditions, curing time, and drainage complexity
What are common mistakes when lay bricks for a garden retaining wall?: 1. Building a retaining wall without engineering for soil loads, surcharge loads, or poor ground conditions. 2. Using an undersized or poorly reinforced footing that settles or rotates under load. 3. Omitting drainage aggregate, ag pipe, or weepholes, leading to hydrostatic pressure buildup. 4. Failing to fully fill bed and perp joints, reducing wall durability and structural performance. 5. Backf
What tools do I need for lay bricks for a garden retaining wall?: This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key building & construction tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.
What is involved in laying bricks for a garden retaining wall?: A brick garden retaining wall is a structural landscaping element designed to resist lateral soil loads, manage drainage, and maintain stability over time. For Australian residential projects, critical considerations include correct footing design, reinforcement, articulation joints, and effective drainage. Walls exceeding 1 metre in height often require structural engineer review and certification in accordance with AS 3700:2018 and relevant state/council regulations.
What skill level do I need for building a brick retaining wall?: Building a brick retaining wall is considered an advanced skill level task. It typically requires 2–5 days, depending on factors like wall length, height, excavation conditions, mortar curing time, and drainage complexity. Proficiency in masonry, understanding structural principles, and adherence to Australian Standards are essential for a durable and compliant structure.
What are common mistakes when building a brick retaining wall?: Common mistakes include building without engineering for significant soil or surcharge loads, using undersized footings, omitting crucial drainage components like ag pipe or weepholes, and failing to fully fill mortar joints. These errors can lead to structural failure, hydrostatic pressure issues, and reduced wall longevity. Always consult AS 3700:2018 and local council requirements.
What Australian Standards apply to brick retaining walls?: The primary Australian Standard for brick retaining walls is AS 3700:2018 Masonry structures, which covers design and construction. Additionally, AS 2870:2011 Residential slabs and footings may be relevant for footing design. Local council regulations and the National Construction Code (NCC) also impose specific requirements, particularly for walls over 1 metre in height or those near property boundaries.

Written by Bricko, the Building & Construction specialist at Aus.Tools.