How to lay double brick walls

🧱 Laying Double Brick Walls — Professional Trade Guide Double brick construction involves building two separate masonry leaves with a cavity between them, tied together with corrosion-resistant wall ties to provide structural stability, moisture management and thermal performance. In Australia

Skill level
Advanced
Time
2–5 days depending on wall length, height, openings, articulation joints and site access
Trade
Building & Construction
Updated
4 November 2026

Tools you will need

  • Brick trowels, including 280 mm
  • Brick bolster and club hammer
  • Bricklayers line pins, line blocks and mason’s string line
  • Spirit levels: 600 mm, 1200 mm and 1800 mm
  • Aluminium straightedge 1800 mm
  • Gauge rod marked to course heights
  • Tape measure 5 m and 8 m
  • Builder’s square and folding rule
  • Joint raker and brick jointer/irons
  • Spot board or mortar board

What is double brick construction in Australia?

🧱 Laying Double Brick Walls — Professional Trade Guide

Double brick construction involves building two separate masonry leaves with a cavity between them, tied together with corrosion-resistant wall ties to provide structural stability, moisture management and thermal performance. In Australian practice, correct set-out, cavity control, tie placement, damp-proofing and sequencing are critical to comply with AS 3700 Masonry Structures, NCC requirements and relevant state-based building controls.

What skill level is required for laying double brick walls?

Advanced — Estimated time: 2–5 days depending on wall length, height, openings, articulation joints and site access

What tools are essential for laying double brick walls?

🔧 Tools Required

Brick trowels, including 280 mm–300 mm London pattern trowel
Brick bolster and club hammer
Bricklayers line pins, line blocks and mason’s string line
Spirit levels: 600 mm, 1200 mm and 1800 mm
Aluminium straightedge 1800 mm–2400 mm
Gauge rod marked to course heights
Tape measure 5 m and 8 m
Builder’s square and folding rule
Joint raker and brick jointer/irons
Spot board or mortar board
Mortar mixer or paddle mixer
Brick saw or petrol/electric masonry saw with diamond blade
Wheelbarrow and buckets
Profiles/corner leads or storey rods
Wall tie nail gun or fixing tools where proprietary systems are used
Scaffolding rated for masonry works
Laser level or dumpy level for set-out and datum transfer
Soft brush and sponge for face brick cleaning
PPE including gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, P2 dust mask and steel-cap boots

What materials are needed for double brick wall construction?

Face bricks or common bricks for outer leaf to project specification
Internal leaf bricks to project specification
Mortar materials or pre-blended bricklaying mortar
Cement, lime and clean brick sand if site-mixing mortar
Clean potable water
Galvanised or stainless steel cavity wall ties to engineer/specification
Damp-proof course (DPC) and cavity flashings
Weepholes/weep vents at required centres
Cavity battens or cavity boards
Articulation joint material and backing rod/sealant where specified
Lintels to openings sized by engineer/manufacturer
Brick reinforcement/mesh if specified
Core fill or grout only if specified in engineered details
Anti-corrosion fixings and proprietary tie accessories
Mortar break material at control joints where required
Temporary bracing materials
Brick cleaner approved for the selected face brick, if required

Safety Requirements

⚠️ Safety

Wear gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, steel-cap boots and respiratory protection when cutting bricks or handling cementitious products.
Use correct manual handling methods; bricks and mortar loads are repetitive and high-risk for strain injuries.
Scaffolding must be erected, altered and used in accordance with Australian WHS requirements; ensure safe platform widths, edge protection and brick guards where required.
Control silica dust during cutting with wet cutting or compliant extraction.
Keep work areas clear of mortar droppings and offcuts to reduce slips and trips.
Structural masonry, tied walls, lintels, articulation joints and footing details must follow engineer’s documentation and AS 3700.
Footings and slabs supporting masonry must comply with design requirements and relevant provisions of AS 3600 Concrete Structures.
Damp-proofing and flashing installation must comply with NCC and relevant manufacturer details. Where wet areas interface with masonry, waterproofing must comply with AS 3740.
Confirm council approvals, site classifications and any state-specific masonry requirements before work begins.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Set out the wall and confirm structural details

1️⃣ Set-Out and Documentation Check

Confirm all drawings, engineering details, footing dimensions, wall thicknesses, cavity widths, articulation joints, tie schedules, openings and lintel sizes before laying begins. Double brick walls are commonly formed from two 110 mm leaves with a cavity typically in the order of 40 mm–60 mm, but the actual cavity must match the project documents and exposure classification.

Transfer datum levels from the slab or footing and mark all corners, returns, piers, openings and control joints. Check that footing width and bearing are suitable for the total wall thickness and loads. On reactive sites or articulated masonry systems, confirm joint spacing and movement detailing exactly to the engineer’s and manufacturer’s requirements.

Use a gauge rod to establish course heights, allowing for brick size plus mortar bed. Check modular set-out at openings to minimise awkward cuts and maintain bond.

Step 2: Prepare the base and install damp-proofing

2️⃣ Base Preparation and DPC Installation

Ensure the slab rebate or footing surface is clean, level and free from laitance, mud or loose material. Any significant level variation should be corrected before bricklaying starts; do not attempt to absorb major discrepancies in bed joints.

Install the damp-proof course and base flashings as detailed. In cavity masonry, the flashing must direct any moisture in the cavity toward the external face and weepholes. Keep the DPC correctly lapped, unpunctured where possible and turned up/down in accordance with the detail.

Mark the inside and outside leaf positions clearly so the cavity remains consistent along the full wall run.

Step 3: Mix mortar to suit the brickwork application

3️⃣ Mortar Selection and Mixing

Use a mortar compatible with the brick type, exposure conditions and specification. For site mixes, a general bricklaying mortar may vary depending on exposure and workability requirements; follow the project specification or mortar manufacturer guidance rather than using a one-size-fits-all mix.

Where a general-purpose mix is nominated for associated works, a common reference is 1:2:3. For higher structural applications where specified, a mix such as 1:1.5:2.5 may be used, but structural masonry mortar should always align with engineering and specification requirements.

Mix only enough mortar to maintain consistent workability without excessive retempering. Mortar should be plastic, cohesive and able to support brick units without slumping. Keep colour and consistency uniform across visible facework.

Step 4: Build and plumb the leads

4️⃣ Corner Leads and Initial Courses

Build corner leads for both leaves first, typically 4–6 courses high, checking plumb, level and gauge continuously. The leads establish the wall’s line, bond and cavity width, so accuracy here controls the whole job.

Lay the first course carefully on a full, even bed. Fully bed perpends and maintain consistent joint thickness to specification, commonly around 10 mm unless project requirements differ. Use the gauge rod at every course and regularly measure cavity width between leaves.

For face brickwork, select bricks to maintain colour blend and avoid clustering of shade variations.

Step 5: Run both leaves up together in sequence

5️⃣ Sequencing the Inner and Outer Leaves

Run the inner and outer leaves progressively together rather than completing one leaf too far ahead of the other. Keeping the leaves within a manageable height difference improves tie installation, cavity cleaning and line control.

Stretch lines between leads for each leaf and lay to the line, not by eye. Maintain full bed joints and solid perpends unless a specific joint profile or drainage detail requires otherwise. Frequently check for:

plumb in both leaves
level across courses
straightness in elevation
cavity consistency
correct bond pattern

Stretcher bond is the most common arrangement in modern double brick construction, though project documents may call for alternative bond treatments in visible facework.

Step 6: Install wall ties at the correct spacing

6️⃣ Wall Tie Placement and Fixing

Install wall ties to the type, material and spacing nominated in the drawings and AS 3700 exposure requirements. In Australian practice, ties are commonly galvanised or stainless steel depending on corrosion environment, with stainless often preferred in coastal or severe exposure zones.

Ties should be laid with a slight fall toward the external leaf where required by the proprietary system so moisture is not directed inward. Place ties as work proceeds, ensuring embedment into both mortar joints is adequate and that mortar fully surrounds the tie.

Increase tie density at:

wall edges
articulation joints
around openings
beside control joints
near unbonded returns or where specified

Do not allow mortar droppings to bridge the cavity or sit heavily on ties, as this compromises drainage and can transfer moisture.

Step 7: Maintain a clean and unobstructed cavity

7️⃣ Cavity Control and Moisture Management

Keep the cavity free of mortar dags and debris at all times. Use cavity battens/boards to catch droppings as the wall rises, removing and cleaning them progressively. A blocked cavity can lead to moisture tracking across to the internal leaf.

Install flashings, weepholes and vents exactly as detailed. Weepholes are generally placed at the base of the outer leaf and above openings where flashing is present, at centres nominated by the documentation or manufacturer. Ensure the weephole path is not blocked by mortar.

This stage is critical in exposed Australian conditions, especially in high rainfall or coastal zones.

Step 8: Form openings, install lintels and continue bond

8️⃣ Openings, Lintels and Returns

Set out window and door openings carefully to maintain coursing and minimise cuts. Install lintels level, with correct end bearing to the engineer’s or manufacturer’s detail. Ensure cavity flashings above lintels discharge to the external face via weepholes.

Maintain tie placement around reveals and openings, usually at closer centres as specified. Check jamb plumb and sill levels before proceeding above openings.

At returns and junctions, preserve the specified bond and tie arrangement. Any deviation at returns can create cracking, poor alignment and structural non-compliance.

Step 9: Install articulation and movement joints

9️⃣ Movement Control

Double brickwork requires movement joints in the locations nominated on the plans and in accordance with articulated masonry principles. Install articulation joints plumb, full height and clear of mortar bridging.

Use approved compressible filler, backing rod and sealant as specified. Ties crossing movement joints must be the correct debonded or movement-capable type where required. Do not hard-pack articulation joints with mortar.

Failure to provide proper movement accommodation is a common cause of masonry cracking on Australian sites, particularly on reactive soils.

Step 10: Finish joints and clean down correctly

🔟 Joint Finishing and Facework Presentation

Tool joints at the correct time once the mortar has thumbprint firmness. Common external finishes include ironed/concave joints for improved weather resistance. Keep joint profile uniform over the full wall area.

Brush off loose mortar as you go. Avoid smearing face bricks with wet mortar, especially on textured or porous units. Use approved cleaning methods only after mortar has cured sufficiently, and always test brick cleaner in an inconspicuous area first.

Check the final wall for:

plumb and straightness
consistent joint thickness
cavity integrity
flashings and weepholes installed
ties to schedule
clean face finish
compliance with drawings and AS 3700

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1.Allowing the cavity to fill with mortar droppings, creating moisture bridges and blocked drainage paths.
2.Running one leaf too far ahead of the other, making tie installation and cavity inspection difficult.
3.Incorrect wall tie spacing, wrong tie type for exposure zone, or poor embedment into mortar joints.
4.Failing to install flashings and weepholes correctly at the base of walls and above openings.
5.Inconsistent course gauge, poor lead accuracy and variable joint thickness causing visible alignment issues and set-out problems at openings.
6.Mortaring articulation joints solid instead of leaving them functional for movement.
7.Using unsuitable mortar strength or workability for the selected brick and exposure classification.

Pro Tips

💡 Use a dedicated gauge rod for the exact brick being laid on the project. Small dimensional variations between manufacturers can throw out head heights quickly.

💡 Keep both leaves within a few courses of each other. This improves productivity, tie accuracy and cavity cleanliness.

💡 In facework, blend bricks from at least 3–4 packs at once to avoid colour banding.

💡 Use cavity boards from the first course upward rather than trying to clean hardened droppings later.

💡 In coastal and high-exposure environments, stainless steel ties and accessories often save call-backs and durability issues even where galvanised products may be minimally acceptable.

💡 For large projects, hire rather than purchase masonry scaffold components, brick saws and mixers unless utilisation rates justify ownership. For occasional or short-duration work, hire is usually more economical and reduces maintenance/compliance burden.

Recommended Tools

🔧 Recommended Tools

OX Pro Brick Trowel 280 mm — reliable balance and blade stiffness for production bricklaying
Stabila 196-2 Spirit Level 1200 mm — accurate plumb and level control on leads and wall faces
Husqvarna Masonry Saw with diamond blade — efficient, clean brick cutting on double brick jobs
Belle Minimix 150 or equivalent mortar mixer — suitable for consistent small-to-medium batch mortar mixing
Cavity board set/proprietary cavity batten system — essential for keeping the cavity clean and compliant

Frequently asked questions

What is involved in lay double brick walls?
🧱 Laying Double Brick Walls — Professional Trade Guide Double brick construction involves building two separate masonry leaves with a cavity between them, tied together with corrosion-resistant wall ties to provide structural stability, moisture management and thermal performance. In Australia
What skill level do I need for lay double brick walls?
Advanced — Estimated time: 2–5 days depending on wall length, height, openings, articulation joints and site access
What are common mistakes when lay double brick walls?
1. Allowing the cavity to fill with mortar droppings, creating moisture bridges and blocked drainage paths. 2. Running one leaf too far ahead of the other, making tie installation and cavity inspection difficult. 3. Incorrect wall tie spacing, wrong tie type for exposure zone, or poor embedment into mortar joints. 4. Failing to install flashings and weepholes correctly at the base of walls and abo
What tools do I need for lay double brick walls?
This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key building & construction tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.
What is the Australian standard for masonry structures?
The primary Australian standard for masonry structures, including double brick walls, is AS 3700 Masonry Structures. This standard outlines requirements for design, construction, and materials to ensure structural integrity and durability. It works in conjunction with the National Construction Code (NCC) for compliance.
How do wall ties contribute to double brick stability?
Wall ties are crucial for connecting the inner and outer leaves of a double brick wall, providing structural stability and preventing differential movement. According to AS/NZS 2699.1:2020, they must be corrosion-resistant, correctly spaced, and adequately embedded in mortar to transfer loads and maintain cavity width.
Why is cavity control important in double brick construction?
Cavity control is vital for moisture management and thermal performance in double brick walls. A clear cavity, typically 50-75mm, prevents moisture bridging from the outer leaf to the inner leaf and allows for insulation installation, enhancing the wall's energy efficiency and preventing dampness issues.

Written by Bricko, the Building & Construction specialist at Aus.Tools.