How to lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area
Laying paving stones is one of the most practical ways to upgrade an outdoor entertaining area, create a durable patio, and improve backyard usability. Done properly, a paved area will handle foot traffic, outdoor furniture, and seasonal weather while providing good drainage and a clean finish. For
- Skill level
- Intermediate
- Time
- 1–3 days for a typical 10–30 m² patio area
- Trade
- Earthmoving & Landscaping
- Updated
- 4 November 2026
Tools you will need
- Tape measure, string line and marking paint
- Shovel, rake and wheelbarrow
- Spade and trenching shovel for edge detail
- Rubber mallet
- Screed rails or galvanised pipes for sand levelling
- Screed board or straight aluminium screed
- Plate compactor, minimum 60
- Broom and soft broom for jointing sand
- Garden hose with spray nozzle
- Plate compactor with paving pad or protective mat
🏗️ How to Lay Paving Stones for a Patio or Backyard Entertaining Area
What is involved in laying paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
Laying paving stones is one of the most practical ways to upgrade an outdoor entertaining area, create a durable patio, and improve backyard usability. Done properly, a paved area will handle foot traffic, outdoor furniture, and seasonal weather while providing good drainage and a clean finish.
For Australian homeowners, the key to a long-lasting result is not just the pavers themselves, but a properly excavated subgrade, compacted road base, correct bedding sand, and the right fall for drainage. This guide covers the full process from set-out to compaction and joint filling.
What skill level is required to lay paving stones in Australia?
Intermediate — Estimated time: 1–3 days for a typical 10–30 m² patio area
What specific tools are required for laying paving stones in Australia?
What materials are needed for a durable paved patio in Australia?
Safety Requirements
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Plan the area and confirm levels
1️⃣ Set out the patio footprint
Measure the proposed patio or entertaining area and mark it with pegs, string line and marking paint. Check the final size against furniture layout, access paths, doors and any adjoining structures.
Allow for full paver module sizes where possible to reduce cutting. For example, if using 400 mm x 400 mm pavers, adjust the patio dimensions so edge cuts are minimised and the pattern looks balanced.
The finished paved surface should fall away from the house at around 1:80 to 1:100, which is approximately 10–12.5 mm per metre. This prevents water pooling and helps direct runoff to garden beds, lawn or drainage collection points.
💡 For entertaining areas beside the house, set the finished paving level at least 50–75 mm below weep holes and slab edge levels unless a building professional advises otherwise.
Step 2: Excavate to the correct depth
2️⃣ Prepare the subgrade
Excavate the area to allow for:
As a guide, many residential patios need excavation of around 140–190 mm below finished surface level, depending on paver thickness and site conditions.
Remove all grass, roots, topsoil and soft material. The base must be firm and uniform. If you hit wet, soft or reactive material, dig deeper locally and replace with compacted base material or install geotextile fabric before placing the road base.
For larger areas over about 30 m², a 1.7t to 3.5t mini excavator can save a lot of labour. Hiring usually makes more sense than buying for one-off residential projects. If you’re doing regular landscape jobs, buying starts to stack up when machine use is consistent and annual utilisation is high. For any machine over $20k, equipment finance through Local Knowledge Finance is worth considering.
Step 3: Compact the subgrade
3️⃣ Stabilise the foundation
Once excavated, trim and level the subgrade and compact it thoroughly with a plate compactor. Work in overlapping passes until the ground is firm and no longer visibly moves underfoot or under the machine.
If the soil is dry and loose, a light misting of water can help compaction. Do not over-wet the ground, especially on clay sites.
This step is often skipped by DIYers, but it is critical. If the subgrade is not compacted, the patio may settle unevenly even if the upper layers are done well.
Step 4: Install edge restraints
4️⃣ Lock the paving perimeter in place
Edge restraints stop pavers from spreading and joints opening over time. Install them before screeding the bedding sand, unless your chosen system requires a different sequence.
Common options include:
For a long-lasting patio, concrete haunching is one of the most reliable methods. Set the restraint to the finished line and level, keeping the top just below the paver surface so it won’t be visible.
On sloping sites or where paving adjoins lawns and garden beds, strong edge restraint is especially important.
Step 5: Place and compact the road base
5️⃣ Build the structural base
Spread road base in layers, not all at once. Install in lifts of about 50 mm and compact each layer with the plate compactor before adding the next.
For a pedestrian patio or backyard entertaining area, use a compacted base thickness of 75–100 mm in most residential conditions. If the area may occasionally carry heavier loads such as small trailers, pizza ovens, spas or frequent wheeled equipment, increase the base thickness and consider engineering advice.
Check levels regularly with a string line, straightedge or laser level. Maintain the designed fall of 10–12.5 mm per metre away from buildings.
💡 The biggest difference between paving that lasts 2 years and paving that lasts 10+ years is almost always base preparation, not the paver brand.
Step 6: Screed the bedding sand
6️⃣ Create a consistent laying bed
Spread washed bedding sand over the compacted base and screed it to a uniform depth of 20–30 mm using screed rails and a straightedge. Do not compact the bedding sand before laying pavers.
Once screeded, avoid walking on it. Only prepare as much area as you can pave the same day.
The bedding layer is for minor adjustment and support, not for correcting poor base levels. If you find low spots deeper than about 10 mm, fix the road base underneath rather than adding extra sand.
Step 7: Lay the pavers
7️⃣ Place pavers in pattern and line
Start from a straight edge, corner or fixed structure and work outward. Lay each paver gently onto the bedding sand, keeping joint gaps consistent according to the paver design, usually around 2–5 mm.
Use string lines every few rows to keep the pattern straight. Popular patio laying patterns include:
For DIY beginners, stretcher bond or stack bond is usually the easiest to keep square. Herringbone is excellent for interlock and strength but takes more cutting and planning.
Use a rubber mallet lightly if minor alignment adjustment is needed. Do not hammer pavers deep into the sand.
Step 8: Cut pavers neatly at edges
8️⃣ Finish borders and penetrations
Measure edge pieces carefully and cut with a wet saw or angle grinder fitted with a diamond masonry blade. Wear eye, hearing and respiratory protection.
Try to avoid tiny sliver cuts. If an edge cut will be less than about one-third of a paver width, adjust the laying pattern slightly so the cuts are larger and stronger.
Around posts, drains or garden features, allow neat clearances and maintain edge support so cut pavers do not move later.
Step 9: Compact the paving surface
9️⃣ Set the pavers into the bedding layer
Once all pavers are laid and edge restraints are secure, sweep the surface clean and run a plate compactor with a paving pad over the paved area.
Make several passes in different directions. This helps seat the pavers evenly into the bedding sand and tighten the surface.
Do not use a bare plate compactor directly on many decorative, premium or natural stone pavers, as it may chip or scratch the surface. Always check manufacturer guidance.
Step 10: Fill the joints
🔟 Lock the paving together
Sweep jointing sand or polymeric sand into all joints until they are completely full. Compact again if required, then top up the joints.
For standard paving sand, repeat sweeping and topping up over the next few days as the sand settles. For polymeric sand, follow the product instructions carefully, especially regarding moisture activation and weather conditions.
Full joints are essential for interlock, load transfer and weed resistance.
Step 11: Final clean-up and drainage check
1️⃣1️⃣ Inspect the finish
Check the entire patio for:
Hose the area lightly and observe water flow. There should be no significant pooling. Minor isolated low spots may be corrected by lifting and re-bedding affected pavers.
If water drains toward the house or puddles persist, install a channel drain or regrade the area before the issue causes damage.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Pro Tips
Recommended Tools
🔧 Equipment Required
🔧 Recommended Equipment
If you’re looking at purchasing commercial-grade gear or a mini excavator above $20k, Local Knowledge Finance can help with equipment finance options.
Frequently asked questions
- What is involved in lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
- Laying paving stones is one of the most practical ways to upgrade an outdoor entertaining area, create a durable patio, and improve backyard usability. Done properly, a paved area will handle foot traffic, outdoor furniture, and seasonal weather while providing good drainage and a clean finish. For
- What skill level do I need for lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
- Intermediate — Estimated time: 1–3 days for a typical 10–30 m² patio area
- What are common mistakes when lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
- 1. Excavating too shallow and ending up with weak base thickness or pavers sitting too high against the house. 2. Not allowing enough fall — flat paving often leads to ponding and slippery surfaces. 3. Using too much bedding sand to fix level issues instead of correcting the road base. 4. Skipping edge restraints, which causes pavers to spread and joints to open. 5. Compacting with the wrong equip
- What tools do I need for lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
- This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key earthmoving & landscaping tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.
- What is the Australian standard for slip resistance in outdoor paving?
- The Australian standard for slip resistance in outdoor paving is referenced in AS 4586:2013, 'Slip resistance classification of new pedestrian surface materials'. This standard categorises surfaces based on their friction properties, which is crucial for ensuring safety in wet conditions, particularly for public access areas or around pools. Tradies should aim for a P3 or higher slip resistance rating for general outdoor residential paving.
- How much fall is required for drainage on a paved patio in Australia?
- For effective drainage on a paved patio in Australia, a minimum fall of 1:80 (12.5mm per metre) is generally recommended, according to landscape construction guidelines. This ensures water runs off efficiently, preventing pooling and potential structural damage or slippery surfaces. For areas adjacent to buildings, a fall of 1:100 (10mm per metre) away from the structure is often specified by the National Construction Code (NCC) to protect foundations.
- What type of bedding sand should be used for paving in Australia?
- In Australia, washed concrete sand or specific paving sand is recommended for the bedding layer. This sand type is coarse, sharp, and free from clay or organic matter, which prevents it from compacting too tightly or washing away. According to industry best practice, a screeded depth of 20-30 mm is ideal for creating a stable, level base for pavers, allowing for minor adjustments during laying.
Written by Digger, the Earthmoving & Landscaping specialist at Aus.Tools.