How to lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area

Laying paving stones is one of the most practical ways to upgrade an outdoor entertaining area, create a durable patio, and improve backyard usability. Done properly, a paved area will handle foot traffic, outdoor furniture, and seasonal weather while providing good drainage and a clean finish. For

Skill level
Intermediate
Time
1–3 days for a typical 10–30 m² patio area
Trade
Earthmoving & Landscaping
Updated
4 November 2026

Tools you will need

  • Tape measure, string line and marking paint
  • Shovel, rake and wheelbarrow
  • Spade and trenching shovel for edge detail
  • Rubber mallet
  • Screed rails or galvanised pipes for sand levelling
  • Screed board or straight aluminium screed
  • Plate compactor, minimum 60
  • Broom and soft broom for jointing sand
  • Garden hose with spray nozzle
  • Plate compactor with paving pad or protective mat

🏗️ How to Lay Paving Stones for a Patio or Backyard Entertaining Area

What is involved in laying paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?

Laying paving stones is one of the most practical ways to upgrade an outdoor entertaining area, create a durable patio, and improve backyard usability. Done properly, a paved area will handle foot traffic, outdoor furniture, and seasonal weather while providing good drainage and a clean finish.

For Australian homeowners, the key to a long-lasting result is not just the pavers themselves, but a properly excavated subgrade, compacted road base, correct bedding sand, and the right fall for drainage. This guide covers the full process from set-out to compaction and joint filling.

What skill level is required to lay paving stones in Australia?

Intermediate — Estimated time: 1–3 days for a typical 10–30 m² patio area

What specific tools are required for laying paving stones in Australia?

Tape measure, string line and marking paint
Shovel, rake and wheelbarrow
Spade and trenching shovel for edge detail
Spirit level and straightedge, or laser level for larger areas
Rubber mallet
Screed rails or galvanised pipes for sand levelling
Screed board or straight aluminium screed
Plate compactor, minimum 60–90 kg for residential paving jobs
Brick saw, wet saw or angle grinder with diamond masonry blade
Broom and soft broom for jointing sand
Garden hose with spray nozzle
Plate compactor with paving pad or protective mat
Knee pads
Stakes or pegs for string lines

What materials are needed for a durable paved patio in Australia?

Paving stones or concrete pavers, plus 5–10% extra for cuts and wastage
Road base or crushed rock base, typically 75–100 mm compacted depth for pedestrian patios
Bedding sand, washed concrete sand or paving sand, typically 20–30 mm screeded depth
Edge restraints: concrete haunching, plastic edging, treated timber, steel edging or concrete kerb restraint
Jointing sand or polymeric paving sand
Geotextile fabric if ground is soft, reactive or prone to pumping
Cement and sand if using mortar-set edge restraints
Drainage materials if required, such as ag pipe or channel drain for poorly draining sites

Safety Requirements

⚠️ Safety — 📞 Dial Before You Dig (1100) before any excavation, even for shallow patio work, to check for underground electrical, gas, water, sewer and communications services
Wear PPE: steel-cap boots, gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection, high-visibility clothing and dust mask or respirator when cutting pavers
Use safe lifting technique — pavers, road base and compactors are heavy and repetitive handling can cause injury
Keep children and pets clear of the work zone
Follow manufacturer instructions for plate compactors, saws and grinders
Control silica dust when cutting concrete or stone; use wet cutting where possible in line with Australian WHS requirements
If using a chainsaw for nearby root or timber clearing, comply with AS/NZS 2727
Check local council requirements if paving affects stormwater flow, site coverage, boundary setbacks, or involves building near retaining walls or pool areas

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Plan the area and confirm levels

1️⃣ Set out the patio footprint

Measure the proposed patio or entertaining area and mark it with pegs, string line and marking paint. Check the final size against furniture layout, access paths, doors and any adjoining structures.

Allow for full paver module sizes where possible to reduce cutting. For example, if using 400 mm x 400 mm pavers, adjust the patio dimensions so edge cuts are minimised and the pattern looks balanced.

The finished paved surface should fall away from the house at around 1:80 to 1:100, which is approximately 10–12.5 mm per metre. This prevents water pooling and helps direct runoff to garden beds, lawn or drainage collection points.

💡 For entertaining areas beside the house, set the finished paving level at least 50–75 mm below weep holes and slab edge levels unless a building professional advises otherwise.

Step 2: Excavate to the correct depth

2️⃣ Prepare the subgrade

Excavate the area to allow for:

75–100 mm compacted road base
20–30 mm bedding sand
paver thickness, commonly 40 mm, 50 mm or 60 mm

As a guide, many residential patios need excavation of around 140–190 mm below finished surface level, depending on paver thickness and site conditions.

Remove all grass, roots, topsoil and soft material. The base must be firm and uniform. If you hit wet, soft or reactive material, dig deeper locally and replace with compacted base material or install geotextile fabric before placing the road base.

For larger areas over about 30 m², a 1.7t to 3.5t mini excavator can save a lot of labour. Hiring usually makes more sense than buying for one-off residential projects. If you’re doing regular landscape jobs, buying starts to stack up when machine use is consistent and annual utilisation is high. For any machine over $20k, equipment finance through Local Knowledge Finance is worth considering.

Step 3: Compact the subgrade

3️⃣ Stabilise the foundation

Once excavated, trim and level the subgrade and compact it thoroughly with a plate compactor. Work in overlapping passes until the ground is firm and no longer visibly moves underfoot or under the machine.

If the soil is dry and loose, a light misting of water can help compaction. Do not over-wet the ground, especially on clay sites.

This step is often skipped by DIYers, but it is critical. If the subgrade is not compacted, the patio may settle unevenly even if the upper layers are done well.

Step 4: Install edge restraints

4️⃣ Lock the paving perimeter in place

Edge restraints stop pavers from spreading and joints opening over time. Install them before screeding the bedding sand, unless your chosen system requires a different sequence.

Common options include:

Concrete haunched edge restraints
Plastic paving edge restraints pegged into the base
Steel edging
Treated timber in some garden settings

For a long-lasting patio, concrete haunching is one of the most reliable methods. Set the restraint to the finished line and level, keeping the top just below the paver surface so it won’t be visible.

On sloping sites or where paving adjoins lawns and garden beds, strong edge restraint is especially important.

Step 5: Place and compact the road base

5️⃣ Build the structural base

Spread road base in layers, not all at once. Install in lifts of about 50 mm and compact each layer with the plate compactor before adding the next.

For a pedestrian patio or backyard entertaining area, use a compacted base thickness of 75–100 mm in most residential conditions. If the area may occasionally carry heavier loads such as small trailers, pizza ovens, spas or frequent wheeled equipment, increase the base thickness and consider engineering advice.

Check levels regularly with a string line, straightedge or laser level. Maintain the designed fall of 10–12.5 mm per metre away from buildings.

💡 The biggest difference between paving that lasts 2 years and paving that lasts 10+ years is almost always base preparation, not the paver brand.

Step 6: Screed the bedding sand

6️⃣ Create a consistent laying bed

Spread washed bedding sand over the compacted base and screed it to a uniform depth of 20–30 mm using screed rails and a straightedge. Do not compact the bedding sand before laying pavers.

Once screeded, avoid walking on it. Only prepare as much area as you can pave the same day.

The bedding layer is for minor adjustment and support, not for correcting poor base levels. If you find low spots deeper than about 10 mm, fix the road base underneath rather than adding extra sand.

Step 7: Lay the pavers

7️⃣ Place pavers in pattern and line

Start from a straight edge, corner or fixed structure and work outward. Lay each paver gently onto the bedding sand, keeping joint gaps consistent according to the paver design, usually around 2–5 mm.

Use string lines every few rows to keep the pattern straight. Popular patio laying patterns include:

Stretcher bond
Stack bond
Herringbone
Basket weave

For DIY beginners, stretcher bond or stack bond is usually the easiest to keep square. Herringbone is excellent for interlock and strength but takes more cutting and planning.

Use a rubber mallet lightly if minor alignment adjustment is needed. Do not hammer pavers deep into the sand.

Step 8: Cut pavers neatly at edges

8️⃣ Finish borders and penetrations

Measure edge pieces carefully and cut with a wet saw or angle grinder fitted with a diamond masonry blade. Wear eye, hearing and respiratory protection.

Try to avoid tiny sliver cuts. If an edge cut will be less than about one-third of a paver width, adjust the laying pattern slightly so the cuts are larger and stronger.

Around posts, drains or garden features, allow neat clearances and maintain edge support so cut pavers do not move later.

Step 9: Compact the paving surface

9️⃣ Set the pavers into the bedding layer

Once all pavers are laid and edge restraints are secure, sweep the surface clean and run a plate compactor with a paving pad over the paved area.

Make several passes in different directions. This helps seat the pavers evenly into the bedding sand and tighten the surface.

Do not use a bare plate compactor directly on many decorative, premium or natural stone pavers, as it may chip or scratch the surface. Always check manufacturer guidance.

Step 10: Fill the joints

🔟 Lock the paving together

Sweep jointing sand or polymeric sand into all joints until they are completely full. Compact again if required, then top up the joints.

For standard paving sand, repeat sweeping and topping up over the next few days as the sand settles. For polymeric sand, follow the product instructions carefully, especially regarding moisture activation and weather conditions.

Full joints are essential for interlock, load transfer and weed resistance.

Step 11: Final clean-up and drainage check

1️⃣1️⃣ Inspect the finish

Check the entire patio for:

Consistent levels
Correct fall away from structures
No rocking pavers
Full joints
Secure edges
Clean cuts and tidy perimeter detail

Hose the area lightly and observe water flow. There should be no significant pooling. Minor isolated low spots may be corrected by lifting and re-bedding affected pavers.

If water drains toward the house or puddles persist, install a channel drain or regrade the area before the issue causes damage.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1.Excavating too shallow and ending up with weak base thickness or pavers sitting too high against the house.
2.Not allowing enough fall — flat paving often leads to ponding and slippery surfaces.
3.Using too much bedding sand to fix level issues instead of correcting the road base.
4.Skipping edge restraints, which causes pavers to spread and joints to open.
5.Compacting with the wrong equipment or failing to compact each road base layer properly.
6.Walking on screeded sand and disturbing the laying bed before pavers are placed.
7.Leaving joints underfilled, which reduces interlock and encourages weed growth and ant activity.

Pro Tips

💡 Order 5–10% extra pavers from the same batch to cover cuts, breakages and future repairs.
💡 Hire a plate compactor for a weekend if this is a one-off project. Buying only makes sense if you’ll use it regularly across multiple landscaping jobs.
💡 For areas over about 20–30 m², use a laser level to save time and improve drainage accuracy.
💡 If your site has reactive clay or stays wet after rain, use geotextile under the road base and consider additional drainage.
💡 Dry-lay a small test section first to confirm pattern, colour blend and joint spacing before committing to the full area.
💡 If you’re choosing between 40 mm and 60 mm pavers, 60 mm generally provides a more robust feel for entertaining areas and occasional light wheeled traffic.

Recommended Tools

🔧 Equipment Required

Plate compactor, 60–90 kg — essential for subgrade, base and final paving consolidation
Laser level or rotary laser — best for setting consistent falls over larger patio areas
Wet brick saw with diamond blade — cleaner, safer paver cutting with less dust
Wheelbarrow and landscape rake — for efficient base and sand handling
PPE kit — steel-cap boots, gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, hi-vis and dust mask/respirator

🔧 Recommended Equipment

Wacker Neuson VP1340 plate compactor — reliable size for residential paving prep
Husqvarna TS 60 tile and paver saw — accurate wet cutting for clean patio edges
Spear & Jackson contractor rake — useful for levelling road base and bedding material
Topcon RL-H5A laser level — dependable for setting 1:80 to 1:100 falls
1.7t mini excavator hire — worthwhile for faster excavation on larger patio jobs

If you’re looking at purchasing commercial-grade gear or a mini excavator above $20k, Local Knowledge Finance can help with equipment finance options.

Frequently asked questions

What is involved in lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
Laying paving stones is one of the most practical ways to upgrade an outdoor entertaining area, create a durable patio, and improve backyard usability. Done properly, a paved area will handle foot traffic, outdoor furniture, and seasonal weather while providing good drainage and a clean finish. For
What skill level do I need for lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
Intermediate — Estimated time: 1–3 days for a typical 10–30 m² patio area
What are common mistakes when lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
1. Excavating too shallow and ending up with weak base thickness or pavers sitting too high against the house. 2. Not allowing enough fall — flat paving often leads to ponding and slippery surfaces. 3. Using too much bedding sand to fix level issues instead of correcting the road base. 4. Skipping edge restraints, which causes pavers to spread and joints to open. 5. Compacting with the wrong equip
What tools do I need for lay paving stones for a patio or backyard entertaining area?
This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key earthmoving & landscaping tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.
What is the Australian standard for slip resistance in outdoor paving?
The Australian standard for slip resistance in outdoor paving is referenced in AS 4586:2013, 'Slip resistance classification of new pedestrian surface materials'. This standard categorises surfaces based on their friction properties, which is crucial for ensuring safety in wet conditions, particularly for public access areas or around pools. Tradies should aim for a P3 or higher slip resistance rating for general outdoor residential paving.
How much fall is required for drainage on a paved patio in Australia?
For effective drainage on a paved patio in Australia, a minimum fall of 1:80 (12.5mm per metre) is generally recommended, according to landscape construction guidelines. This ensures water runs off efficiently, preventing pooling and potential structural damage or slippery surfaces. For areas adjacent to buildings, a fall of 1:100 (10mm per metre) away from the structure is often specified by the National Construction Code (NCC) to protect foundations.
What type of bedding sand should be used for paving in Australia?
In Australia, washed concrete sand or specific paving sand is recommended for the bedding layer. This sand type is coarse, sharp, and free from clay or organic matter, which prevents it from compacting too tightly or washing away. According to industry best practice, a screeded depth of 20-30 mm is ideal for creating a stable, level base for pavers, allowing for minor adjustments during laying.

Written by Digger, the Earthmoving & Landscaping specialist at Aus.Tools.